sawatson 10 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Our troop is purchasing a new trailer for transporting gear and supplies. I would like to hear from others who have gone through this process as to what is suggested for troop logo design on the side panels, how to best use the interior of the trailer or any lessons learned on use of the trailer. Link to post Share on other sites
OldGreyEagle 5 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 You may wish to read the "Tale of Two trailers" thread in this section as well as do a search on the word Trailers Link to post Share on other sites
anarchist 10 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Easy stuff first...outside...Troop number, BSA designation of some sort *(BSA, BOY SCOUTS OF AMERICA, BOYS SCOUTS, etc.)...then perhaps the 'town' (location) and perhaps the CO?? BIG BSA EMBLEM...you can have all kinds of fun... LOCKS! 1).-LOCK FOR THE DOOR(s) check out the lock by AMERICAN THAT HAS NO HASP FOR THEIVES TO BREAK...if it fits your closure system on the door it is great! 2).-LOCK the ball lever with a pin lock...(make several keys for each lock) 3). -Lock cover for the ball coupler (fits over or actually in the area where the hitch ball nests)...IF THE HITCH DOES NOT ACCEPT A LOCK DO NOT BUY THE TRAILER OR BE PREPAIRED TO CHANGE THE HITCH SYSTEM...easy on some trailers difficult in others...but the ball blocker type locks are pretty darn effective... 4).-Lock for the anchor system...where ever you store the trailer long term (I hope not out in public)dig a good size hole fill with concrete and a couple of 'Eye' bolts back fill with dirt and chain the trailer down with a BIG CHAIN and lock...:not talkin bout no swing chain here"...BIG CHAIN and a BIG LOCK. YOU will be spending about $100-$150 to secure the thing right...but it is better than replacing all your gear and a trailer... Light is also good...we store ours next to a barn with a dusk to dawn yard light on it...(darkness is bad!) the inside is harder...what do you have to store and what size is the trailer...how many doors? door configuration? Some basics, what you use first should be easiest to unload...example our trailer is a double-rear, swinging door (not drop-ramp) model: When we hit camp, often at night, we need lights so when the two rear doors open... on the left door are mounted eight propane distribution trees (propane tanks arrive in the bed of someones pick-up)hanging in a line along the right side wall (in line at the top of the wall) are eight 2-1/2 gal plastic paint buckets with lids that hold our eight propane lanterns.(LET THERE BE LIGHT!) On the right door is a web 'net' that holds eight rolled tarps and on the floor of the trailer snugged up to some of the kitchens are the eight sets of 2x2 tarp poles {bound together as individual sets} and a large bucket with extra tarp pins, extra lines and a couple of mallets...Thusly we can have eight lighted, 'dry' camp areas set up in ten to fifteen minutes...and if it is night and raining (seems our usual activity weather) ...each tent(free standing timberlines) can then be assembled under a lighted tarp and then moved -rainfly already attached and interior DRY! Patrol kitchens and fire box (red wood box with axes, saws, ax-yard-yellow-rope, shovel, miscellaneous tools line both walls, and the "garage-tarp-set is up front under the 30 or so tents...D.O. have nests between the kitchen sets and tables for each kitchen line the kitchens 'in'...all of this is strapped down with ratchet webbing straps...attached to floor and wall rings... We are currently experimenting with designs to raise the kitchens up a foot or so on a shelf like structure and move the tarp poles out of the isle and 'under the kitchens'...so loading boys backpacks is a little easier...and also reducing the number of P.U. trucks we need... somewhere I have a tailer plan so newbies can get the 'packing' right...if the QM (or I) is/am/are not around to guide stuff 'in'...PM me and I'll see if the file is still on one of my computers...or if the QM has his copy... looking forward to other ideas... Link to post Share on other sites
Eagledad 2779 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Hi All Anarchist has some great stuff. Considering the idea of multiple smaller trailers so a diesel rig isnt required to pull it. Im reaching way back into my gray matter, but I think a trailer heavier than 850lbs empty really needs a truck size vehicle to pull it when loaded. While multiple trailers does require additional storage and security requirements, they also give you more options of including cars and mini vans. The second largest Troop in our district (120 scouts) owns five 6x10 steel trailers. They grab only what they need for the number of scouts going on an outing. We have on several occasions needed both our trailers because the Troop and high adventure crew were on separate outings at the same time. Consider steel over aluminum. Our steel trailer is stronger, lighter and cheaper for the quality than our aluminum. Seems like aluminum would be lighter, but they need plywood walls to protect the aluminum walls from shifting cargo, steel doesnt. Consider wood floors because they are easier to replace than rusted steel floors. Consider 15 inch wheels because smaller wheels have a higher risk of burning out bearings. Consider mounting the spare tire inside your trailer to prevent theft. We like it mounted high up on the door. High so it doesnt take up cargo space and on, or near, the door so you dont have to empty the trailer to get to it. The company from which we bought our steel trailer liked this idea so much, they are now offering this option to all their customers. The 6 ft. wide is a lot easier to pull than the 7 ft. for most cars with stock mirrors. The wheel distance on our 7 ft. trailer is wider than my Suburban. Consider getting it as tall as you can so you can stand up strait. Consider a trailer that has the axle mounted slightly aft of center so that the trailer doesnt tip up when you enter it unhooked from the vehicle. You will understand what I mean when you go look at trailers. Consider getting electrical hookups that fit all your towing vehicles. There are two popular types(cant remember what they are called) for trailers of this size. We keep both hookups in a bag in the trailer. Those are a few of the lessons we have learned the last 14 or so years. Barry Link to post Share on other sites
Lynda J 10 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Let your boys design a logo for the troop. But be sure to have your troop number, city and charter org on the trailer. Link to post Share on other sites
sawatson 10 Posted April 13, 2005 Author Share Posted April 13, 2005 This is all terrific information! Thank you VERY much. Anyone know of posts or a website w pictures of other troop's trailers (inside or outside) that we might review to get some ideas. Scott Link to post Share on other sites
Greeneagle5 10 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Good ideas and posts ! I agree w/ the rec.s on considering smaller sized trailer(s) for smaller vehicles and 2 patrol sized outings. Our Heavy Hauler needs a turbo-charged diesel for a long trip, which isn't always available. I also suggest considering rear "drop-down" stabilizer jacks (built into frame), possibly a roof rack for bulky canoes/kayaks (Kentucky Lake weekends). 6' interior height and side door access are nice options when loading and unloading after a long trip. Wells Cargo .com did have pictures of a few Troop trailers in the past, not sure now. A Camporee or Summer Camp is a good place to "see & copy" good ideas on organizing, signage and customizing. We also have an open cargo single axle used for firewood, bikes, teepee poles, Christmas tree deliveries, etc. And Btw- Welcome to the forums ! G5(This message has been edited by Greeneagle5) Link to post Share on other sites
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