Leather Hiking Boots Waterproofer

[Grumpy 10]

What is the best product to use to waterproof leather hiking boots. My old Danner's are still doing the job, but I want to get them ready for this weekend's trip, expecting all 3 days of rain. I haven't treated them in quite a few years since it rarely rains here in Phoenix.

[WDleader 10]

While I was active duty in upstate Ny I used mink oil. I would strip the polish of of the the Issue Danners that I had and then applie the mink oil. The go back and reapply the black polish to the boot. this worked very well, just a little time consuming.

 

 

 

 

 

Robert

WEBELOS II Den Leader

Pack 49

Augusta, Ga

[fotoscout 15]

Ive used a product called Sno-Seal for many years. Its made from Bees wax. If youre concerned with appearances after youve applied the treatment then this isnt for you. If will darken and leave a slight buildup on the leather. But the stuff works, and its cheap!

 

You warm the boot in an oven, spread the stuff over the boot and work it into the seams. Then wipe off the excess. All done.

 

[cajuncody 10]

Also heating the boot in the oven does double duty. When Hubby sees it I can tell him it is dinner and I get to go out to eat!

Seriously though, how about waterproofing the suede type boots? Any good products out there for that?

Kristi

[KoreaScouter 13]

For suede or nylon/synthetic (like running-shoe material), try Camp-Dry (or Camp-Dri). It's an aerosol silicone-based compound, and comes in at least two different concentrations. Get the stronger one. It costs about $6 a can, and lasts a good long time. It takes a while to dry, and stinks until it's dry, so don't use it in the house (especially near tile or linoleum -- any overspray makes the floor unbelievably slippery...almost comically so). An application is good for several months. I use it on my Hi-Tec hikers and running shoes.

 

KS

[KoreaScouter 13]

Sno-Seal's awesome; I use it on my Matterhorns (in fact, they recommend it and include a small sample with new Matts). I haven't used it on my Danners because I need to get a brush shine on them from time to time, and you can forget about shoe polish if you use sno-seal.

 

KS

[dancinfox 10]

Try using Saddle Soap. I've used it for years. I only have to put one coat on a year. The soles of my hiking boots wear out before the leather does.

Dancin

PS

I've also used mink oil. It works great too.

[Grumpy 10]

Okay, I did my investigating, and here is what I came up with. The actual brands I used are at the bottom of my post. BTW, Sno-Seal is what I have used on these boots over the last 15 years. I would have gone back to it and put up with the mess if I hadn't learned of some of the new stuff available now, because it always did a good job. I never put the boots in the oven though, I would apply the Sno-Seal, then set them outside in the summer (I live in Phoenix), or use a hair dryer in the winter.

 

The way I see it, there are 5 chemical composition options now available,

 

Oil Based: (Mink Oil) These soften the leather of the boot, and can cause it to break down after time, so that the boot is less supportive.

 

Wax Based: (Sno-Seal) Wax-based products are quite functional in waterproofing hiking boots, provided the wax is reapplied regularly. Be sure to buff the boots after applying to get rid of the excess - it can attract dirt and grime. The main drawback is that wax based waterproofers cut down on the breathablity of the boot. Your feet don't get as much air when perspiring, and once the boots are wet, they take longer to dry.

 

Silicone Based: (Camp-Dri) Stitching and glue can break down under the high petroleum content of silicone products. Silicone products stiffen the boots when exposed to low temperatures, and they do not aid in conditioning the leather. Silicone is recommended as opposed to wax based products for boots with a Gore-Tex liner, because it is more breathable.

 

Water Based: Good for your boots and the environment. I haven't been able to find any of this, though.

 

Fluoropolymer: This type of waterproofing comes in a spray can, and has been rated the best by leading authorities on the subject. It can be used on hiking boots that have been previously treated by a different method. It dries quickly, and repels stains. Backpacker magazine rates Tectron Boot & Shoe Guard (by Blue magic) far and away the best waterproofing application. This fluoropolymer spray costs six dollars for a four-ounce can. The two applications required on a pair of boots uses about one quarter of the can. I found it at REI, although on the Blue magic website's store locator it did not list REI as one of their retailers.

 

My solution......

I bought a product called Ultra Seal at REI, for use on the welt, seams, and stitches. It is a water based polymer made by Trondak for REI. It comes in a 2 ounce squeeze tube. Trondack is the maker of the Aquaseal line of waterproofing products. They sell this same product under their own name also as "Stitch Guard". I applied 3 applications as directed, allowing 15-30 minutes between applications.

 

Then I followed up that application with the Tectron (also bought at REI) and sprayed it on after the Ultra Seal dried. Two applications, 24 hours apart as directed.

 

I'll let you know how well this works after this weekend.

 

 

[packsaddle 753]

Sno-Seal user for more than 30 years. Be careful with the oven warming, though. Rule of thumb, don't get the leather hotter than the animal that produced it did when it was alive. For a quick fix, a hair dryer is useful.

[Grumpy 10]

Actually, if using Sno-seal, and you think you need to use an oven, heat it up, then turn it off before you but the boots in there.

 

Oaky, the weekend is over, and I am now dried out. The stuff worked great, and I won't be going back to Sno-seal anytime soon. Easy to go on, no mess, can polish right over it. Best news is that the boot stayed dry in VERY WET weather.