The A5 knot for.....

[le Voyageur 72]

.....lead climbing training

 

Needed a knot that would allow for a set up that would protect both the climber, and his/her belayer at the the same time during lead climbing training. The problem was, was that none of the current climbing knots provided a simple, and elegant solution.

 

Here's my knot that resulted after a decade of trial and err....

 

http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh427/Chowanoke/DSCI0213.jpg

 

Here, the bottom loops of the knot are clipped into the harness, and the top loop ready to receive the bottom, top rope belay line..

 

Here's how to tie. Start thus....

 

http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh427/Chowanoke/DSCI0205-1.jpg

 

http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh427/Chowanoke/DSCI0207-1.jpg

 

http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh427/Chowanoke/DSCI0208-1-1.jpg

 

http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh427/Chowanoke/DSCI0209-2-1.jpg

 

http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh427/Chowanoke/DSCI0210-1.jpg

 

The finished knot, ready for dressing

 

http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/hh427/Chowanoke/DSCI0211-1.jpg

[BeginnerScout 10]

le Voyageur,

 

Could you elaborate some more on your scenario that this knot is being used to resolve?

 

From the knot itself, it appears that you just need two loops to clip to. To do this, you could have used a double figure-8, a bowline on a bight, or multiple figure-8's at different positions.

 

In the past, I usually just use a tether to the other person or tether them to an anchor. If no tether was available, I used multiple figure-8's.

 

Just curious, I haven't done any lead climbing in 10 years. But I still like to learn.

[le Voyageur 72]

The lead climbing this knot is designed for is A5 climbing, or what is referred to as big wall climbing http://www.devilstowerlodge.com/climbing/images/dtl_frank.jpg, where climbers advance using only etriers (webbing step ladders)being there are no foot or hand holds, being protected by a bottom belay. Not free style lead climbing. Thus, in A5 training, the climber is attached to both a bottom belay, and a top rope belay.

 

As such the concern is clutter, and to avoid entangling belay lines and gear in the etriers....In A5 climbs, the bottom belay line, and a cow's tail runner with a Gibbs is attached to the front of the harness. Adding on top of that when training, a top rope belay line becomes a concern of confusion when topping out. When topping out, the climber has to clip into a safety line, before unclipping from the top rope belay keeping the bottom belay clipped. A total of four lines clipped into the front of the harness makes for a lot of clutter. Keeping the top rope belay away from the harness makes it evident what is what, and what needs to be left alone...(This message has been edited by Le Voyageur)(This message has been edited by Le Voyageur)

[BeginnerScout 10]

le Voyageur,

 

Thanks for the explanation. Not my cup of tea, but interesting.