Re: Northern Tier prep
Alpvalsys@AOL.COM
Sun, 29 Aug 1999 23:11:51 EDT
In a message dated 99-08-27 23:06:23 EDT, Keith Wood wrote:
<< while the lighter Kevlar canoes sound enticing, stick to the heavier
aluminum canoes. They have more capacity, a wider beam and thus more stable,
and they
are durable. >>
Keith,
It's not the width that makes a canoe stable in certain situations; it's
the hull
design that makes the difference. A flat-bottomed canoe that appears stable
at
the dock actually lacks the secondary stability required in rougher water. I
regularly
run my flat-bottomed canoe in Class 2 whitewater and it's only experience that
lets me get away with it; I'd be much better off in a V-hull, or, at least, a
low-arch
hull. Almost all aluminum canoes are flat-bottomed.
As for material, I avoid aluminum for a couple of reasons. One: aluminum
seats
get real hot sitting out in the sun; they're also very uncomfortable. And
Two: the keel (some makes use three) gets snagged on too many underwater
obstacles;
they are of real use to solo paddlers on calm lakes. Kevlar is great if you
can
afford it and you know how to treat it. My preference is one of the
proprietary vinyl
layups; they're a bit heavy, but they can survive years of bouncing off rocks.
As for how much gear you're trying to cram in, you may only have problems
if
you're using narrow racing hulls. I was on the Delaware River yesterday and
one
of the families in our group was using an 18-1/2-ft Kevlar boat that weighs
over 90
pounds and is a bit over 36 inches wide and I've seen them (mother, father
and two
girls) get themselves and all the gear they need for a week into that one
boat. It's
a matter of knowing what you need more than what you'd like.
Ralph V. Balfoort, Unit Commissioner
Albany, NY
I used to be a Beaver.... (NE III-135)
In the Beaver Patrol as a Scout, too,
and now Ktemaque (Beaver) Chapter,
Haudenosaunee Lodge #19, OA
