Re: Cold Weather Camping Part 2 - Other gear

Winter Camping Part 2

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Other gear:

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Sleeping bag:
No skimping here. Down works great, but if it gets wet it will lose
all=20
insulation value. For experienced, responsible, older, scouts (and=20
scouters) this shouldn=92t be a problem - just keep it dry. Plus, down i=
s
the=20
most compressible material around. But boys will be boys, so I usually=20
recommend some man-made fiber, such as LiteLoft, which is almost as=20
compressible as down. A good bag will be expensive, but many gear=20
stores will rent them. Construction is probably more important than=20
filling. Things to check for are: a full length draft tube, if quilted
- make=20
sure he inside seams are offset from outside seams, a full coverage
hood,=20
mummy construction. Another thing that helps out is to get a longer bag=20
than necessary. That way you could stuff things that you=92d like to keep=
=20
warm during the night.

I personally use a layered technique, mostly because I don=92t have the=20
space and money for three different bags. My inside layer is my poly
top=20
and bottom with generously thick socks (I get cold feet at night), then
I=20
get in a vapor barrier made by wrapping a space blanket around myself. =20
Then I slip into an acrylic blanket bag my wife sewed up. I wear a wool=20
hat and my bag is a +20F-rated down bag. The major problem with this=20
is the time it takes to finally get in position. Without exaggeration,
I=20
believe that I squirm around for 10 - 15 minutes. Then again, all that=20
activity generates heat, so maybe this is a good thing. This season I=20
might try one of those emergency mylar bags instead of the space=20
blanket. I could buy a vapor barrier liner, but they cost too much.

Another problem was that my system didn=92t work so well at -5F. I was=20
cold during the night. Not enough to keep me awake all night, but it
was=20
very uncomfortable. I think a thicker acrylic or wool blanket might do=20
the trick.

---------------
Mattress pad:
This is almost as important as the bag. The self-inflating or
closed-cell=20
foam type work pretty well. Stay away from any of those inflatable type,=20
more suitable as floats in the pool. These allow air to move around=20
under you and could actually help cool you off.

I recommend two pads when sleeping on the snow. More is warmer.

---------------
Tents:
Don=92t know much here because I haven=92t used one in the winter, yet. =20
I=92ve been told that the fiberglass poles have a tendency to crack, so
you=20
might want to stick to aluminum.

We=92ve used quinzees (a type of snow-dome), dugloos (dig a hole and=20
sleep under the stars), snow-kitchens, and scout-camp lean-tos. Out of=20
all of these, I think the lean-tos are the coldest. We strung tarps
around=20
the bunks to cut down on drafts and the amount of air needing to be=20
heated. Whatever you try, bring as many tarps as you can. Those blue,=20
PVC, things work pretty well in extreme cold.

---------------
Mess kit:
I use a plastic cereal bowl from the local Name-Your-Favorite-Mart. Get=20
something thick, as extreme cold could cause it to crack. I don=92t like
the=20
metal mess kits because they seem to allow the food to cool too
quickly. =20
Also, keep it light colored. Chances are, you=92ll be eating at least on=
e=20
meal, probably supper, in the dark, and a dark plate/bowl makes food=20
disappear.

An insulated coffee mug, with lid, works great. Avoid those metal
cups. =20
They transfer too much heat from the hot chocolate directly to the lips.

---------------
Stoves:
Propane and butane have problems in the cold. They start losing=20
pressure below freezing and it=92s pretty much gone by the time you get t=
o=20
0F. We stick with the white gas stoves during winter time.

---------------
Lights:
Lanterns should also be white gas. I=92ve seen batteries die out at
extreme=20
cold, too. Candles always work. Flashlights should be kept on your=20
person even during the day, because of the battery problem.

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